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Piccolo
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Closed holes
Standard in the UK for beginners, closed holes are ideal as the keys are easy to close for small hands, allowing a good tone to be produced from the start. Also known as Plateau keys. Virtually all closed hole flutes have an offset G key (see Inline/Offset G, below). Not sure whether to choose closed or open holes? We've listed some of the advantages and disadvantages of each. Top
Open holes
Open holes (which have holes through the middle of the A, G, F, E and D keys) encourage players to adopt a good hand position, thus avoiding bad habits. Open holes also allow advanced 'extended' techniques such as quarter-tones and note slides. Also known as French or Ring keys. Not sure whether to choose open or closed holes? We've listed some of the advantages and disadvantages of each. Top
Open holes vs. closed holes - which to choose?
We are always being asked our opinion on this! Here are the advantages and drawbacks of open holes:
Open holes can give a player greater scope for improving their playing: your fingers simply have to be in the correct position for an open holed flute to produce a good sound (or in the case of some notes, a sound at all!), which means that a good finger technique is encouraged. This will result in faster fingers with a more even and fluid technique. Many players like the feeling that open holes gives of being so much closer to the sound.
Open holes also allow a player to perform "extended" techniques, used primarily in contemporary music, to produce effects which simply aren't possible on a flute with closed holes. If you're a lover of modern music or want to play jazz, then you should certainly consider open holes. More and more music is being written by contemporary composers (for example, Ian Clarke, Robert Dick, Takemitsu) which requires open holes.
This doesn't mean that this use of open holes is restricted to modern music. They have a myriad of other uses too: for example, to play a top A quietly in tune, you can slightly uncover the A key hole to bring the pitch up. There are lots more examples of this.
Tone quality wise, there is not a huge amount of difference between open and closed holes, although some players find that projection is slightly improved on open holes. Price-wise, they are usually the same price - open holes with inline keys are sometimes actually cheaper than closed holes.
The one drawback to having a flute with open holes is that you need to take time to adjust to it: if you try and dive straight in to an open holed flute, the chances are that your fingers won't make a complete seal with the rings, and you will end up disappointed with the resulting sound. However, most players start with all the holes "plugged" up, and remove the plugs one at a time. This gives the player time to concentrate on getting their fingers in the right place one by one. Players with very small hands may find open holes harder (or in a few cases impossible) to adjust to.
One important point to bear in mind: open holes can always be converted to closed holes with plugs without affecting the tone quality too much, whereas closed holes can not be converted to open! Top
Split E mechanism
This is a small extra piece of mechanism which makes top E easier to play. It does not affect any other note. Most teachers strongly recommend that beginners learn on a flute with an E mechanism - plus the re-sale value of flutes with a split E mechanism is usually higher. Top
Inline/Offset G
This refers to the position of the G key. The traditional construction of the flute was with all keywork inline. An 'offset' G means that the G key is taken out of line - many people find this more comfortable to hold, and in the UK this is the most popular form of flute. Virtually all closed holed flutes will have an 'offset' G key.
It is worth mentioning that an offset mechanism is the most reliable option for adding an E mechanism. A split E mechanism on an inline flute is less reliable (and is not offered by most manufacturers). Top
C footjoint
Pretty well standard in the UK. Compared to B footjoints (see below), they are lighter, less resistant and less expensive. Top
B footjoint
Increases the flute's range by one note to low B - useful for a lot of orchestral music as well as solo pieces. Because of the extra length, adding a B foot to your flute changes the weight and balance, darkening the tone and increasing resistance in the top register. Top
Curved headjoint
A curved headjoint on a student flute means that a player with small arms can reach the keywork more comfortably with less stretch. Curved headjoints encourage good posture for small players. Top
Riser
This is the part of the headjoint which links the lip-plate to the tube. The riser is the first point of contact between the airstream and the flute. Because of this, the material it is made from has a big impact on the quality of sound that the flute produces. The riser is also known as the chimney. Top
Lip-Plate
This is the part of the headjoint which you put against your lip. The material it is made from has a big impact on the quality of sound that the flute produces. Top
Pointed key-arms
This means that the key-arms (the parts which connect the mechanism to the keys) run all the way into the centre of the keys which you don't put your fingers on. Pointed key-arms are the traditional design of key, combining elegance with strength, and can generally be taken as a good sign of an instrument's build quality. Also known as 'French' arms. Top
Pinless mechanism
Most standard mechanisms use small pins to attach keys to the rods, which can be an entry point to the mechanism for perspiration. A pinless mechanism (as used by Pearl, for instance) reduces the amount of perspiration and body acids that enter the mechanism, effectively eliminating many of the problems that this can cause, including corrosion and binding keys. Top
Gizmo key
Often called the High C Facilitator key, this improves intonation on top C and makes it easier to play. Virtually all B footjoints come with a Gizmo key as standard. Not necessary on a C footjoint. Top
E ring
A less expensive alternative to an E mechanism. This is a small insert which provides a more secure top E, but unlike an E mechanism, can be reliably fitted to an inline flute. Top
C# trill
An additional trill key to facilitate B to C# trills. For more information on this, click here. Top
G-A trill
An additional trill key to facilitate the top G to A trill. Top
D# roller
This roller facilitates movement between the low D#, C# and C keys on the footjoint. Top
Drawn vs Soldered tone holes
On machine-made flute tubes, the tone holes are 'drawn' out of the tubing. On a handmade tube, each tone hole is crafted separately and soldered into position, increasing the weight of the flute. Players who prefer a less resistant flute with a lighter sound often opt for a drawn tone hole model, while those who are looking for a darker sound and more resistance often choose a soldered tone hole model. Because of the considerable time that goes into hand soldering each tone hole, soldered tone hole models cost more.
Note: A flute can still be considered 'handmade' even though it has drawn tone holes. Top
Undercut tone holes
This means that, where the tone holes meet the tube, they are bevelled to allow the air to flow through the instrument with less resistance and a clearer tone. It can also give more accurate tuning. Top
Seamed tube
Here, the flute tube is formed from a sheet of metal rolled over and soldered ('seamed') along its length. This produces a sound similar to that of vintage French flutes. This is considerably different to the modern way of 'drawing' tubing, which results in a very consistent tube, offering alternative tonal qualities. Only a handful of flute makers continue to offer seamed tube, most notably Altus on their 1607 and AL models, and Ian McLauchlan on his "French" headjoint. Top
Open/Closed G#
The open G# system is the original keywork designed by Boehm (although it is not the system which is used most commonly today). On a standard "closed G#" flute, the G# key remains closed until pressed - so when all the left hand keys are pressed, G# is heard.
On an open G# flute, the G# key is open until the G# lever is pressed - this has the effect that when all left-hand keys are pressed, G natural is heard; and when all left-hand keys except the G# lever are pressed, G# is heard. The G# lever must be pressed for all notes below, and including, G. Top
Scale
This is a tricky subject to condense! To put it simply: No flute is 100% accurately in tune with itself - this is a physical impossibility to achieve. All flutes therefore have a compromise on tuning, often with a sharp C# and flat D and E. The word "scale" in this context refers to the positioning of the tone holes in relation to each other. Albert Cooper and William Bennett have both devised their own scales, which are both very close to accurate (so flutes with these scales have good intonation); some manufacturers (e.g. Muramatsu, Yamaha) have their own scale which they use. Top
Tuning (A=440Hz, 442Hz, 444Hz)
Some flute manufacturers offer the choice of A=440Hz, 442Hz or 444Hz. In the UK, A=442Hz is standard - this means that when the headjoint is pushed fully in, the flute will be slightly sharp - this is a good thing, since if the flute was tuned to A=440Hz when fully pushed in, you have no room to go sharper if you need to (for example, on a cold day or when playing with a sharp piano). A=442Hz gives the flexibility of being able to play a little sharper if you need to. Virtually all flutes we sell are tuned to A=442Hz. Top
Heavy Wall, Thin Wall and Standard Wall
This refers to the thickness of the tubing. Thin wall is usually .014" (0.35mm), standard .016" (0.40mm) and heavy wall is .018" (0.45mm). A thin wall flute is lighter to hold and is more responsive, whereas a heavy wall flute is more resistive but may have more depth to the sound. Top
Standard (thick wall) and thin wall wood headjoints
Standard (thick wall) piccolo headjoints, in which the embouchure hole is cut directly into the tube, are the traditional style of wood headjoint and produce a sound with excellent resonance.
Thin wall wood headjoints have a lip-plate carved into the wood. Many players find that this aids positioning and increases flexibility and response. Top
Standard, Reform, Profiled and Wave embouchure
Reform headjoints, in which the wood is profiled around the embouchure hole, give a more immediate response and ease of articulation for many players. Also known as profiled or wave headjoints. Standard embouchures do not have any profiling around the edge.Top
Lip-plate engraving
Engraving the flute lip-plate is not just another way of making your flute look good! It helps solve "slipping flute syndrome" caused by perspiration on the lower lip, which many players suffer from. Whilst it is a It also makes your flute individual! It is worth pointing out that if you are choosing to have the lip-plate engraved, choose a design which will appeal to a wide audience, just in case you ever want to sell. Engraving your initials, or a Salvador Dali masterpiece, may limit your potential customer base in the future! Top
Silver-plating*
Most student-range flutes are now silver-plated - this is considered preferable to nickel plating as some people are allergic to nickel; and nickel can feel slippery under the fingers. The base metal underneath the plating is usually nickel. Top
92.5% Solid*
We use the term '92.5% solid' throughout this site to describe flutes or parts of the flute which are not hallmarked. This is because an item cannot be legally described as being of gold, silver or platinum unless it is hallmarked. Overseas manufacturers might use the term 'Silver' or 'Sterling'. Except silver-plated flutes, this is the standard material used to manufacture flutes. Top
95.8% 'Britannia'*
95.8% Britannia Silver is of a higher purity and density than Sterling Silver.
Some players prefer a denser flute tube for the added resistance and tonal qualities that this offers. Several flutemakers, most notably Altus, offer tubing with a higher purity of metal for players who prefer greater resistance. The result is an increased range of tone colour and greater flexibility and control.
Players tend to find that flutes made in 95.8% 'Britannia' have a mellow, dark tone, with increased projection. Top
99.7% 'High Purity'*
High Purity Silver is of an even higher purity and density than Britannia Silver, and is about as pure as is possible to make silver.
Altus have pioneered 99.7 'High Purity' on their PSD and PS models. Flutes made in this material have incredible projection with a perfectly consistent tone colour across the range. Top
*Allergies to silver
We are finding that more and more people are showing allergic reactions to silver. The best solution we have found in the medium term is to gold plate the lip-plate, a procedure which can be carried out via our workshop.
Aurumite®
Aurumite is a combination of silver and gold, two sheets which are fused to produce an interlocking layer. This effectively produces a 'sleeve' of gold. This is not plating or bonding, but equal layers of each metal. Aurumite® is available in 9k (gold on the exterior) or 14k (gold on the interior). Top
9k/10k/14k/18k etc - red, yellow or white
We use the terms 'red', 'yellow' or 'white' throughout this site to describe flutes or parts of the flute which are not hallmarked. Overseas manufacturers might use the terms 'rose gold', 'yellow gold' or 'white gold'. The number defines the purity of the metal (the higher the number, the purer). Gold is denser than silver and more resistive, giving a richer sound with more lower harmonics. Top
Gold-plating
Gold plating a flute can make a large difference to the tone. The added weight enhances the lower harmonics of the sound, but does not give as much resistance as a solid gold flute. Top
PT
We use the term 'PT' throughout this site to describe flutes or parts of the flute which are not hallmarked. Overseas manufacturers might use the term 'Platinum'. Platinum is increasing in popularity, and because of its greater density than gold, adds more lower harmonics to the sound, darkening the tone considerably. Top
Platinum-plating
Like gold-plating, platinum-plating gives even greater depth to the flute's sound, and can really enhance projection. Top
Wood
Using wood in the construction of flutes and headjoints gives an open, round sound with less high harmonics and more lower harmonics. The most popular wood is Grenadilla, also known as Blackwood. More descriptions of the different types of wood can be found here. Top
Silver-plating
Silver-plating is considered preferable to nickel plating as some people are allergic to nickel; and nickel can feel slippery under the fingers. The base metal underneath the plating is usually nickel. Silver-plated headjoints on the piccolo usually have a lip-plate similar to a flute. This helps make them comfortable and easy to play for flute players who are getting their first piccolo. Top
ABS resin
Much less expensive than using wood, ABS resin is very popular on student piccolos, being free-blowing with good tone quality. Top
Grenadilla-wood
This is the most popular wood used in making wind instruments. Wood gives an open, round sound with less high harmonics and more lower harmonics. Also known as Blackwood. Top
Rosewood, Palisander, Kingwood
These each have a different density and hardness to Grenadilla, and so instruments made in these materials have different tonal possibilities. Top
Wood grading
As wood is a natural product, it can vary considerably in quality. As well as ungraded wood, some instruments are made in aged wood and hand-selected wood.
- Aged wood means that the wood is seasoned for a longer time than usual. This makes the wood harder, helping the instrument become more stable with a warmer sound and tonally consistent over the whole instrument range. In addition, it is less likely to crack.
- Hand-selected wood means exactly that - the wood is hand-picked by the instrument maker as being of particularly high quality. This has the same features as aged wood, only more so.
High G# mechanism
This mechanism half-closes the thumb keys when the G# lever is pressed, making high G# easier to play and more focussed. Top
Thick wall and thin wall headjoints
Thick wall piccolo headjoints, in which the embouchure hole is cut directly into the tube, are the traditional style of wood headjoint and produce a sound with excellent resonance.
Thin wall headjoints have a lip-plate carved into the wood. Many players find that this aids positioning and increases flexibility and response. Top
Standard, Reform, Profiled and Wave embouchures
Reform headjoints, in which the wood is profiled around the embouchure hole, give a more immediate response and ease of articulation for many players. Also known as profiled or wave headjoints. Standard embouchures have no profiling. Top
This extra piece of keywork (usually available only by special order) is a very useful piece of mechanism with a lot of functions:
B to C#
Play a normal B and trill the C# trill key. The thumb-and-finger trill is eliminated and the tuning is better.
C to C#
This is a faster trill and allows for a more comfortable feel.
Top F# to G#
Play top F# and trill the C# trill key.
High G to A-flat
The intonation is better on this trill.
High G to A
Play normal high G, and trill the C# trill and upper trill key together.
High A-flat to B-flat
Finger high A-flat and trill the C# trill together with both other trill keys. Top
Clarinet Jargon Explained
Bb clarinet
The standard instrument to begin to learn to play on, the bulk of the clarinet's solo repertoire is for clarinet in Bb. Top
A clarinet
Used mainly in orchestral and ensemble playing, although there is some solo repertoire for clarinet in A. Top
Eb clarinet
Primarily an orchestral instrument, with a higher sound than Bb or A clarinets. Top
ABS resin
Much less expensive than wood, ABS resin is very popular on student clarinets, as it is light and free-blowing with good tone quality. Top
Grenadilla-wood
This is the most popular wood used in clarinets, as it gives an open, rich sound. It is not generally used on student instruments because of its additional weight and higher cost. Also known as Blackwood. Top
Wood grading
As wood is a natural product, it can vary considerably in quality. As well as ungraded wood, some instruments are made in aged wood and hand-selected wood.
- Aged wood means that the wood is seasoned for a longer time than usual. This makes the wood harder, helping the instrument become more stable with a warmer sound and tonally consistent over the whole instrument range. In addition, it is less likely to crack.
- Hand-selected wood means exactly that - the wood is hand-picked by the instrument maker as being of particularly high quality. This has the same features as aged wood, only more so.
- Unstained wood is the highest quality - there is no need for the manufacturer to stain the wood to bring out its colour as it will have a naturally strong colour.
Green Line
This is a composite material used exclusively in the manufacture of Buffet clarinets. It is the result of blending 95% blackwood powder with carbon fibre, and has similar tonal qualities to blackwood. An added advantage is that it will not crack. Top
Silver-plating
Silver-plating is considered preferable to nickel plating as some people are allergic to nickel; and nickel can feel slippery under the fingers. The base metal underneath the plating is usually nickel. Top
Adjustable thumb-rest
This means that the thumb-rest can be set to a comfortable position, reducing strain in your right hand. Top
Neck strap ring
This is a ring on the thumb-rest, to which you can attach a neck strap to reduce the weight on the hands for young players. Top
Undercut tone holes
This means that, where the tone holes meet the tube, they are bevelled to allow the air to flow through the instrument with less resistance and a clearer tone. It can also give more accurate tuning. Top
Springs
This is what makes more expensive instruments "feel" different to the student models. Blue steel springs give a lighter touch with more responsive and immediate action.
Bore
This is one of the main factors in the clarinet's sound quality and tuning. The shape (conical or polycylincrical) can make the tone "dark" or "warm"; a hand-burnished bore is made more accurately, giving better tuning and a more consistent sound.
Saxophone Jargon Explained
Alto saxophone
The standard instrument for players to learn on, as it is fairly light, small and easy to play. In the key of E flat. Top
Soprano saxophone
Sounding higher than the alto saxophone, many sopranos are available straight (looking like a brass clarinet) or curved (like a mini alto sax). The soprano sax is the type played by Kenny G, and is in the key of B flat. It is not as easy to play as the alto sax as it requires more puff and is harder to control. Top
Tenor saxophone
Sounding lower than the alto saxophone, many adult players prefer to start on this, since in their case weight and size are not an issue. The tenor sax sounds richer and more mellow, and is the type played by John Coltrane. In the key of B flat. Top
Front F key
This key is pretty much standard on all saxophones now; it gives the player an alternative fingering for top F (F6). Top
High F# key
An extra key, pretty much standard on new saxophones, which makes the fingering for top F sharp much easier. Top
Detachable bell
This refers to the way that the saxophone is made. A detachable bell makes repair work much easier should the instrument receive damage to the bell or body. Top
Underslung crook
This is where the octave key (the long thin key on top of the saxophone) goes under the crook of the saxophone, rather than above it. This results in a quicker-responding octave mechanism which is less likely to get damaged. Top
Brass
Most saxophones use brass as the base metal. The more expensive the instrument, the higher grade the brass will be. Higher grade brass:
- makes the saxophone harder and stronger, and so less susceptible to knocks and dents
- gives the saxophone a purer sound with greater response and control of tone colours Top
Finishes
Some saxophones, especially those in the intermediate and professional ranges, are available in different finishes:
- Lacquer is the most common finish. Lacquer is a 'spongy' surface and helps give a saxophone a mellow sound. Clear lacquer looks more yellowy; gold lacquer is darker)
- Silver-plating is harder than lacquer and gives a brighter sound
- Black nickel-plating is heavier than lacquer, and gives a darker sound
- Unlacquered is when the instrument is left as bare brass. These instruments are likely to lose their shine very quickly, but many players find that the sound is very free and open
- Gold-plating is heavier than silver-plating and gives a warm, rich sound Top
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